Sourcing Philosophy

How I Choose My Essential Oils

Not every essential oil deserves every job. Here's how I actually decide which oil goes into which bottle, and why.

8 min readSourcing PhilosophyUpdated June 2026
Essential oils and bottles, botanical sourcing

Key takeaways

  • An essential oil isn't "good" or "bad" in the abstract: it has to match its task
  • I think in 3 tiers: therapeutic, artistic, practical
  • The central criterion is appropriateness, not price or prestige
  • A rare oil used well creates more value than a rare oil wasted

The Wrong Question

People often ask me: "Which essential oil brand do you recommend?" I think that's the wrong question. The better question is: "What am I trying to create?"

An essential oil isn't simply "good" or "bad." It has to match its purpose. I've already explained why I work exclusively with certain producers for oils intended for people and animals. But that requirement isn't universal, and I want to be honest about this: I would never use a hand-harvested wild lavender for the cleaning part of a blend, or even to repel insects. I consider them too precious to be "wasted" that way.

In practice, that means I think in three tiers depending on what I'm actually formulating.

Level 1: Therapeutic Use

When an essential oil is going to come into direct contact with a person or an animal, I become extremely selective. I look for oils produced by growers I know, whose farming, harvesting, and distillation methods I actually understand.

Whenever possible, I choose oils that are:

  • grown organically;
  • harvested with respect;
  • distilled close to where the plants are grown;
  • fully traceable;
  • produced by people fairly compensated for their work.

These are the oils I use for consultations, massage blends, inhalers, skin preparations, and formulations intended to support wellbeing.

Level 2: Artistic Use

Some oils are extraordinary. Wild lavender harvested at high altitude. An old-growth cypress. A rare, hand-harvested helichrysum. Those oils deserve to be experienced, not hidden inside a kitchen cleaner.

They're perfect for:

  • perfumery;
  • olfactory work;
  • meditation;
  • inhalers;
  • luxury aromatic creations.

Sometimes the aroma itself is the reason to buy the oil.

Level 3: Practical Use

Now imagine I'm making a kitchen spray, an all-purpose cleaner, an insect repellent, or testing twenty perfume accords in a row. Do I really need a tiny-batch, hand-harvested artisan lavender? Probably not.

Here I'm looking for something different. I still want an authentic oil, correctly identified botanically, and ideally organic, but I don't necessarily need an ultra-premium artisan producer. For this kind of work, there are serious companies with a non-MLM business model and properly traceable organic oils at prices that make sense for practical use. I deliberately don't name them here: that's research I prefer to leave to each person, keeping the same criteria: traceability, botanical identification, transparency about origin.

Organic stays my default even here, as long as the price gap remains reasonable. And I want to be precise rather than oversimplify. Not all pesticide residues behave the same way during distillation: some, with low volatility, remain mostly in the plant material or distillation waters rather than migrating into the essential oil; others, more lipophilic, can end up in the oil in measurable quantities. The reality depends on the specific molecule, not a universal rule. What draws me toward organic isn't therefore the certainty that "every pesticide ends up in the bottle," but a broader concern: soil health, the exposure of the people who harvest and distill, and a fundamental coherence with a practice that claims to respect living things. That said, I wouldn't choose a wild-harvested flower or a hand-collected oil for this tier. And the source doesn't need to be a single producer: lavender sourced from multiple growers and distilled elsewhere works perfectly well for cleaning or repellents.

I don't buy an expensive oil because it's expensive. I buy it when its quality will genuinely make a difference in what I'm creating.

It's Not Just My Opinion

This way of thinking isn't a personal quirk. Several respected aromatherapists encourage choosing an essential oil according to its use, chemistry, origin, and relationship to the plant, rather than treating all oils as interchangeable. I simply take that idea one step further: I also ask whether an exceptional oil deserves the task I'm giving it.

Jade Shutes, through the School for Aromatic Studies, repeatedly returns to the idea of building a relationship with each essential oil, not with a brand. A relationship to the plant, its chemistry, its origin, its ecology, and its therapeutic action, where a species' conservation status should guide how it's sourced and used.

Robert and Rodney Tisserand, the world's leading safety reference, almost never rank oils by prestige: their work is about choosing the appropriate oil based on efficacy, chemistry, and safety, exactly the mindset defended here.

Kurt Schnaubelt has long written about ecological aromatherapy: treating essential oils as valuable botanical remedies, not interchangeable fragrances.

And perhaps the strongest argument is one of stewardship over a scarce resource: a liter of artisan wild lavender used across 50 therapeutic consultations creates more value than the same liter poured into a bathroom cleaner. That's a conservation principle applied to essential oils : using a precious resource where it creates the greatest value.

Ultimately, this isn't about price or prestige. It's about appropriateness.

Appropriateness

The right oil depends on the task. The right approach depends on your real situation.

FAQ

Because a rare, artisan oil produced in tiny quantity by someone whose work I personally know creates more value used across 50 therapeutic consultations than diluted into a cleaning spray. It isn't a budget question. It's a question of what the task actually deserves.

No. They still need to be authentic, correctly identified botanically, and ideally organic. The difference isn't chemical quality. It's the level of traceability and terroir rarity, which doesn't need to be maximal for a household cleaner.

Not because they'd be unsafe, but because for regular topical use in consultations, I prioritize full field-to-bottle traceability, ideally with French growers I know personally. A curating house, sourcing rare oils from many producers worldwide, remains a treasure for olfactory exploration and perfumery, just without that same level of direct traceability.

For therapeutic skin use, yes, as much as possible. For practical use (cleaning, repellents), I favor it when the price gap stays reasonable, because working with plants while tolerating pesticides in the distillation feels inconsistent to me. But I don't treat it as an absolute dogma when the price differential becomes disproportionate to the use case.

An approach matched to your situation, not a catalog

The same logic that makes me choose a different oil depending on the task applies to a consultation: understanding what you're actually experiencing before suggesting anything.

For Professionals

Brands, labs, formulators, schools: describe your sourcing need.

Sources

Every study below was read in full while writing this article. Every numerical claim in the text traces back to one of them.

[1] The School for Aromatic Studies

Foundations of Aromatherapy

Shutes, J.

[2] Churchill Livingstone / Elsevier, 2nd edition

Essential Oil Safety: A Guide for Health Care Professionals

Tisserand, R., & Young, R. (2014)

[3] Healing Arts Press

Advanced Aromatherapy: The Science of Essential Oil Therapy

Schnaubelt, K. (1998)

Link unavailable

[4] See our sources

Why I Choose My Producers

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